Walk Around Perugia, Capital of Umbria

Today we walked around Perugia, the capital of Umbria. You can find instructions for this walk in my book, Circular Walks on the Tuscany Umbria Border.

The Underground City, Perugia City Walk Umbria

We started by taking the escalator from the Parcheggio Partigiani to the Underground City. These medieval streets and houses became the storerooms of a fortress built by Pope Paul III when he conquered Perugia in 1543. When Italy was unified in 1860, the Perugians tore the Rocca Paolina down and these underground streets are all that remain.

Porta Marzia, Perugia City Walk, Umbria

Walking through the underground Via Bagliona, we came out of the Porta Marzia. This Roman / Etruscan gate used to be the south entrance to the city but the Pope’s architect, Sangallo the Younger, moved the gate and incorporated it into the lower wall of the Rocca Paolina. If you think it’s odd to have an entrance here, you have to remember that the fortress was built to subdue the Perugians rather than to protect the city from enemies.

Corso Vanucci, Perugia City Walk, Umbria

Walking back through the Underground City we took another escalator up to Piazza Italia. The buildings here all date to the destruction of the fortress, the 1860’s. Soon we were walking down the Corso Vannucci, Perugia’s wide main street.

Bar Sandri, Perugia Walk Umbria

We stopped at Bar Sandri, opposite the Palazzo dei Priori, Perugia’s impressive medieval town hall. Bar Sandri sells an impressive range of chocolates and the hot chocolate drink is superb.

The Chambers of the Merchants' Guild, Perugia Umbria

Afterwards we headed into the Collegio del Cambio to see frescoes by Perugino, Perugia’s best known artist. Then we walked past the main entrance to the Palazzo dei Priori and into the meeting room of the Merchants’ Guild. The room is pannelled with inlaid wooden tiles.

Notaries' Chamber, Perugia Walk, Umbria

A few steps later we were in the Piazza IV Novembre, the main square in Perugia. Up the steps to our left we entered the Notaries’ Chamber, a large room covered in frescoes by the medieval Roman painter, Cavallini.

Fontana Maggiore, Perugia, Umbria

 

 

We stopped to admire the Fontana Maggiore, the impressive medieval fountain in the middle of the piazza.

Looking Down the Etruscan Well, Perugia, Umbria

Then it was on to the Etruscan Well, the Pozzo Etrusco, which used to be the city’s main source of water, it’s not known how deep the well was because the no one has ever excavated the underwater rubble.

Raphael / Perugino Fresco in San Severo, Perugia, Umbria

A short walk took us to the only fresco by Raphael in Perugia. Raphael, originally a student of Perugino, had painted the top half of the fresco when the pope called him to Rome. raphael died, aged 37, never having returned to complete it. His teacher, Perugino, now in his seventies, was called upon to finish it. You can see the lower figures lack the solidity of those above, Perugino was clearly past his best when this work was carried out.

View from Piazza Gio Battista Rossi Scotti, Perugia, Umbria

Continuing the walk, we admired the view from Piazza Gio Battista Rossi Scotti.

Etruscan Arch, Perugia, Umbria

Then we walked down steps to the Etruscan Arch, the northern entrance to Perugia. The top of the arch has the name of the emperor Augustus carved in large letters. Augustus captured Perugia in the civil war after Julius Ceasar’s assassination.

Bridge over the Medieval Aqueduct, Perugia, Umbria

We walked back to the city centre along a medieval aqueduct.

We continued on to the Oratorio di San Bernardino di Siena, a small church with a beautifully carved facade.

Medieval Tower, Perugia, Italy

 

Before returning past Perugia’s one remaining medieval tower to the Corso Vannucci.

Lunch on the Corso Vannucci Perugia Umbria

 

Sitting outside on the Corso Vannucci, we had a light lunch at the restaurant, Il Baccio.

Entrance to the Palazzo dei Priori, Perugia Umbria

Then it was time for a visit to Perugia’s National Gallery of Umbria.

See Quattro Passi’s web site for Walking Holidays on the Tuscany Umbria border and 

 

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Tags: Guided, Hiking, Holiday, Italy, Self-guided, Tuscany, Umbria, Walking, Walks